Dorotan’s vision is too wide for such easy characterization. The dinner rush would be coming in less than six hours. He trimmed a few poinsettias at the bar, then returned to the kitchen. The sambal number, however, provoked happy gibberish from those who ate it over the chicken, who spooned it into their mouths like fiery yogurt. The chicken had been served with two dipping sauces already: one sour and soylike, the other with the peppery kick of a traditional American hot sauce. “This is for the chicken,” he said, and returned to his post by the window. A few moments later, he emerged with a small bowl of sambal, a kind of Malaysian ketchup, that he had cooked thick with coconut milk, brightened with lime.
Dorotan turned and regarded these people as an artist might a sketch.
There was a spread on the table: eggs, garlic-fried rice and tocino, the sweetened cured pork known sometimes as Filipino bacon thin rice noodles with chicken, pork and swirls of vegetable Balinese fried chicken and a purée of taro and sweet potato as rich as softened butter. Purple Yam serves lunch on weekends only. There was a family eating lunch at one of the booths in the back of the restaurant, across from its partly open kitchen, under a bead-board ceiling. They moved to Brooklyn, to Ditmas Park, a neighborhood of Victorian houses and discount stores, to start again. Dorotan and his wife, Amy Besa, closed it in March. There was a long brick wall behind him reminiscent of the one that dominated his last restaurant, Cendrillon, in SoHo, for more than a decade. He looked a bit like a ship’s captain: formidable, intimidating, kind. It was early afternoon and the place smelled of fresh flowers, vinegar and fried pork. It was just after Christmas, and there were still holiday songs playing on the stereo behind him. Apart from its beautiful color and delicious taste, ube also contains vitamins A and C, as well as high levels of potassium.ROMY DOROTAN, the chef and an owner of Purple Yam, stood at the bar of his restaurant, looking out at Cortelyou Road in the rain. In addition to their differences in taste, ube is more moist than sweet potatoes, which tend to be drier in texture. Even though ube and purple sweet potatoes share a sweet, earthy taste, ube has a distinctively nuttier, vanilla-like flavor. Anthocyanins, which are powerful antioxidants, are responsible for the purple color of both ingredients.
#Purple yam skin#
Purple sweet potatoes have a more smooth purple-colored skin and lilac-colored flesh. Fresh ube has a dark, bark-like skin and flesh that can vary in color from a creamy white to a deep lavender. One of the most striking differences between the two is their appearance. Although purple sweet potatoes and ube share a rich purple color, they are entirely different ingredients. Ube is not to be confused with a purple sweet potato. (In the Philippines, it is also called ubi when sold in seed catalogs in the United States for growing at home it is sometimes called "winged yam"). The word ube (pronounced "ooo-bay") comes from the yam's name in Tagalog, the national language of the Philippines. Ube is a major vegetable crop in the Philippines.
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